Mississippi Transplant: Maria Zeringue
"Being from the Deep South, I feel like I am always living in tension with what I love about this region and what really angers me about it."
What does it mean to call Mississippi home? Why do people choose to leave or live in this weird, wonderful, and sometimes infuriating place? Today we hear from folklorist, arts lover, and emerging photographer Maria Zeringue.
Where are you from?
I am from Thibodaux, Louisiana. It is a small town in southeast Louisiana with a population of about 16,000. I always tell people it is about 45 miles southwest of New Orleans, and without fail, most people will say, “There’s something south of New Orleans?!” I know not everyone is familiar with Louisiana geography, and that is totally fine. It would be nice, though, if people would just take my word for it when I tell them where I live, lol!
My family has been rooted in Louisiana for generations. With the help of my girlfriend, I recently traced back some of my roots on my dad’s side, and I am a 10th generation Louisianan. The first Zeringue who immigrated to North America came to the Gulf Coast by way of Biloxi, so I guess in a way, I have a bit of Mississippi in my story as well.
When did you move to Mississippi and why did you move here?
I moved to Mississippi in late April 2017 for a job. I am trained as a folklorist, and I did a national job search to pursue the types of jobs I was interested in that would allow me to use my degree. As you can imagine, folklore is not really a hot job market, so I applied to several folklore jobs all around the US. After a few months on the search, I was offered a job at the Mississippi Arts Commission to work as the Folk and Traditional Arts Director, and I accepted. I moved to Mississippi the week after I wrapped up my last semester at Indiana University.
What does “home” mean to you? How does Mississippi fit into that definition?
When I think of home, the first thing that comes to mind is Louisiana. I left Louisiana in 2013, and I have had somewhat of a nomadic life since then. Over the past ten years, I have lived in a few different places including a year in Belgium, a year in France, three years in Indiana and now almost six years in Mississippi. In the decade that I have lived outside of my home state, home is a connection to Louisiana that I carry around with me wherever I go.
Home is the food that I make like gumbo, crawfish etouffee, shrimp stew, and stuffed mirlitons. Home is bits of French that are permanent parts of my English. Home is listening to Dr. John, Allen Toussaint, Professor Longhair, Lost Bayou Ramblers, Bonsoir Catin and lots of Cajun and Zydeco music on my record player. Home is Mardi Gras and boiled seafood and imagery of southern live oaks, palmettos, cypress trees, and water everywhere.
Now that I live in Mississippi, I am able to visit Louisiana a lot, and that has been great to have a closer physical connection to home. In terms of how Mississippi fits into my version of home, it is the place where I have matured into adulthood. I was in graduate school for a long time (most of my twenties), and Mississippi is where I started my first “real” job where I could start building a career and get confident in doing the work that I do. I also fell in love here and lived in a place on my own without family or roommates for the first time.
Indiana (in the cocoon of grad school) was a place where I felt like I could be my authentic self and embrace all my weirdness and just learn to love me for me. And Mississippi is where I put all that into practice–and while it hasn't always been easy to do that here, I keep on.
What do you miss most about the place where you’re from?
I miss the culture of Louisiana, the food, the landscape, Carnival season, and the general joie de vivre there. But in terms of job opportunities, there are not a ton of folklore-related jobs in Louisiana that allow me to get back there easily, which contributes to my longing for home—that it is just out of reach. This brings to mind a quote by Kate Beaton, from her graphic novel Ducks: “I need to tell you this—there is no knowing Cape Breton without knowing how deeply ingrained two diametrically opposed experiences are: A deep love for home, and the knowledge of how frequently we have to leave to find work somewhere else.” I think Mississippians can relate to this, too.
On the other hand, Louisiana has its fair share of issues that give me pause when I think of moving back. While I want to return to Louisiana, I definitely have some reservations about it because of how politically and religiously conservative a state it can be. I love it, but it’s a complicated place.
Being from the Deep South, I feel like I am always living in tension with what I love about this region and what really angers me about it.
How have you cultivated community in Mississippi? Who are the people who have made you feel rooted here?
Cultivating community in Jackson has been hard because of how transient the city is. What struck me in my first few weeks of living here was how often the subject of leaving came up in conversation. It was so common to hear questions like “How long are you staying?” followed by answers like “I’m leaving after I finish school,” or “I’m looking to get out soon.” I made friends and watched them leave and had to start over again. To be honest, I have found it a little difficult to make new friends in Jackson because the community here is pretty tight-knit, and a lot of people have known each other since grade school or college. In my experience, as a transplant who did not know anyone before I arrived, it was hard to break into social scenes where friendships had long been established.
I have mostly found community through my girlfriend, Callie, and her social network, and she is the person who has made me feel most at home here. I also love getting to know the artists that I work with around the state, and they, too, have made me feel at home in Mississippi. For example, I take pottery lessons with Brian Newman about once a week, and it has been so fun being creative and learning a new skill. When I am traveling and not able to go to the pottery studio, I really miss it. I find it’s easy to have these types of experiences in Mississippi because the arts community is really welcoming and eager to share their knowledge.
What’s the weirdest question or assumption you’ve encountered about Mississippi (or about you as a Mississippian) by someone who’s never been here?
One thing that I had not experienced before moving to Mississippi was how some people would respond when I told them I had gotten a job in Jackson. At first, they were so excited about my new job, and when I would tell them where the job was, I would see their smiles drop like a deflated balloon. One time, a person even said “sorry” in response to me telling him I lived in Mississippi—who does that? I think some people assume that the negative reputation of the state is completely accurate. While some of that is true, I have had some positive experiences here.
How has living in Mississippi affected your identity and your life’s path?
In terms of my queer identity, living here makes it harder to feel at ease being myself in some public spaces. I don’t really feel as comfortable as I would be if I lived in a place that is generally more accepting and welcoming of the LGBTQIA+ community.
When I am in certain places where I don’t feel entirely safe holding my girlfriend’s hand, for instance, I feel the weight of that decision to turn inward, to stifle my identity, in order to protect my safety.
It sucks that I don’t feel safe enough to be out 100% of the time in Mississippi. And especially now with all the anti-trans and anti-LGBTQ legislation and the “Don’t Say Gay'' bills sweeping the country these past couple years, it’s definitely a scary time. I just don’t want to stay in a place long term where I have to second-guess when, where, and how I can be myself.
What is something that you’ve learned about Mississippi only by living here? In what ways has Mississippi lived up to your expectations?
I have learned so much about Mississippi history and culture that I would not have known if I lived elsewhere. My job requires me to travel around the state a good bit, so I have been able to become acquainted with the different personalities of each region.
I really love that people in Mississippi travel the state often to do fun activities. It seems to me that people don’t just look for stuff to do in their immediate area but all over the state. Like I wouldn’t think twice about traveling two hours to check out an exhibit or listen to some music. I just love that. I don’t mind driving, so it really doesn’t bother me. What is neat about it is that the whole state can feel like one city sometimes.
Have you ever thought about moving away? Does a sense of duty keep you rooted here? Do you have a “tipping point”?
Yes, I have thought about moving away many times, and I think I have reached my tipping point already. It was especially bad during the water crisis in Jackson this past year, which really brought me to the edge of my limit. I have had many tipping points over the years before the water crisis that included the recent overturning of Roe v. Wade, the wave of anti-LGBTQ+ legislation, book banning attempts at libraries, bad roads, and widespread religious and political far-right conservatism.
A lot of what is happening in Mississippi is also happening in other parts of the US, and these are not just Mississippi problems, but American ones. It’s hard to say where I would like to go next because I feel like I am also reaching a tipping point for America as well.
What do you wish the rest of the country understood about Mississippi?
Mississippi has such a rich artistic legacy. It’s an interesting place that has birthed a lot of creative talent. The writers, musicians and artists are all really amazing. I have enjoyed learning about Walter Anderson, George Ohr, Super Chikan, Christone “Kingfish” Ingram, 5th Child, Cedric Burnside, Jimmy Duck Holmes, Sharde Thomas, the Hattiesburg punk scene, Jesmyn Ward, Rory Doyle, Maude Schuyler Clay and so many other Mississippi artists.
And the landscape is beautiful! I never get tired of driving down Highway 90 on the coast with the Gulf of Mexico on one side and beautiful live oaks on the other. I love checking out Bobby Whalen’s murals of Delta music history in Indianola after eating a good plate lunch at Betty’s Place. Or walking the Bailey’s Woods trail from the University Art Museum to Faulkner’s Rowan Oak in Oxford.
One thing I really love is driving through the Delta at night, and being in awe of the only bright light around emanating from gas stations. The visual juxtaposition of a long, dark rural road with the technicolor of gas station interiors and neon signs can be sort of magical. Mississippi also has really good bookstores (Lemuria and Square Books) and great record stores (OffBeat and End of All Music).
If you take a deep dive, Mississippi is really interesting. There’s a lot of cool stuff that exists here, and if you can’t see it, just start talking to people.
Do you have a favorite Mississippi writer, artist, or musician who you think everyone needs to know about?
I am obsessed with a local potter, Sam Clark, who makes these amazing clay dragons and trolls. I am so happy Mississippi introduced me to the work of Walter Anderson and his brother Peter Anderson of Shearwater Pottery. They are some of my favorite artists of all time. I love visiting the Walter Anderson Museum and Shearwater Pottery on the coast. Walter Anderson is a world class artist who reminds me in some ways of Jean Cocteau’s work. I love Anderson’s work so much, it brings me a lot of joy. I tell everyone I can to visit the museum. There are so many artists that I love here!
If you had one billion dollars to invest in Mississippi, how would you spend your money?
I would invest in the arts and focus on funding individual artists and grassroots organizations. I also would support the greater LGBTQIA+ community as well. As far as I know, Jackson doesn’t really have a designated queer community center, where multiple generations of queer people can come to hang out, learn from each other, and support each other. If I had a lot of money, I would love to create that for queer people in the city. And since it’s a billion dollars, it would be great to foster and develop queer community centers all over the state. I would also invest in helping to support education, mental healthcare, the state library system, voting access, and climate change.
What or who do you want to shamelessly promote? (It can absolutely be a project you’re working on, or something you are involved in.)
I am the managing editor of Mississippi Folklife, an online publication that documents the state’s traditional arts and culture. We have published some fascinating stories over the years that highlight Mississippi’s wonderful creativity and diversity. When visiting the site, please visit our Exhibits page to check out our online exhibit, “Folklife and the Civil Rights Movement in Mississippi”.
Here are some of my favorite stories:
Covid: A Tabletop Game Changer | Mississippi Folklife
THE SOUL MAN OF CLARKSDALE, NOT A EULOGY | Mississippi Folklife
Mississippi’s Finest: Denise LaSalle and the Legacy of the Blues Woman
A Chicken Walks Into A Bar | Mississippi Folklife
Aerial Delta | Mississippi Folklife
HIGHWAY MEMORIALS | Mississippi Folklife
Fun by Any Means Necessary: Punk Rock in Hattiesburg, Mississippi